Lazy Days in Laos: Our 2-Day Mekong River Cruise

While planning our Southeast Asia itinerary (who, me? Planning?) I was most hyped for the 2-day Mekong river cruise, our “splurge” experience.

The course runs from Huay Xai, Laos (across the border from Chiang Khong, Thailand), following the Mekong southeast towards Luang Prabang. Although it takes more than double the time to reach your destination than by speed boat or bus, you can soak up the views of the idyllic countryside, and doze off to the tame sounds of the river.

We booked with Shompoo Cruises, and couldn’t recommend them enough. Our tour guide’s name was Sommay - about 5’4, bronzed, big smile, loves his mother.

Over the course of the 2 days, Sommay regaled us with many hidden legends of the Mekong, and the nuances of relations amongst Laos’ nearly 50 different tribes. Sommay grew up in a hill tribe village in Northern Laos, and became the first in his family to move to the city and get an education. He is now a tour guide for several companies in the region, and is honorably fundraising to buy some land for a future boarding school for kids.

We spent much of the first day at the bow of the boat and reclining in our plush purple benches, mesmerized by the river. The boat is normally full, with ~30 or so passengers. We were joined by just 8 others, and were the youngest passengers by about 20 years.

NOTE: some images below are in slideshow format. Don't forget to click the right arrow!

Lunch was fantastic, including fresh fruits, sweet and sour chicken, fish in banana leaf, sautéed eggplant, and other traditional vegetable dishes.

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Hill Tribe Village

Later in the afternoon, we visited a hill tribe village off the shore of the Mekong. At first we were apprehensive, having read about exploitative tourism practices with hill tribes in the region such as the long neck Karen and Hmong in Chiang Mai. In some cases, these villages operate entirely for tourists as a means to buy mass-produced trinkets, and take photos of villagers in traditional attire (for a charge, of course). It is not uncommon for Burmese refugees to be held hostage in these touristy villages, as part of their negotiation to remain in Thailand.

These horror stories couldn’t have been further from our experience. Walking the ~100 dirt steps up to the small village of about 70 people, Sommay told us that he in fact grew up in a village just like this one. One of the homes just recently got electricity, and the schoolhouse was not in use because the volunteer teacher’s term had ended. Many of the villagers were idle in the mid-day heat, finding respite from the sun in their wooden stilt homes while their hogs and chickens napped beneath them. Children congregated around us, with the older girls caring for the toddlers with a maturity well beyond their years. One child actually dove head first to catch a bird, succeeding in finding his next toy.

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Elephants in Pakbeng (overnight)

We docked in Pakbeng for the night, and woke up early to observe elephants drinking and bathing in the river. One hydrophile must have gone out then back in at least 3 or 4 times - like a little kid refusing to leave the tub.

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Pak Ou Caves

On our second day, we visited the Pak Ou Caves, a collection of two caves nestled in limestone cliffs, home to more than 4,000 Buddha sculptures made from ceramic, wood, tree resin, and gold leaf. Before Laos adopted Buddhism in the 16th century, the cave was used as a place of worship for local tribes, who worshipped animal and natural spirits. The cave is believed to be for the Naga spirit, or 7-headed serpent. As the legend goes, the Naga rose up like an umbrella over the Buddha for seven days and nights to protect him from the monsoon rains.

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Lao Lao Whiskey Village

Later in the afternoon we visited a ‘Lao Lao’ (rice) whiskey village. Handmade textiles were also for sale. Whiskey was made from black rice and sticky rice, fermented into rice wine and whiskey. Snake and scorpion whiskey, which Sommay said was for ‘old men’ was also available. Steven took some home. Just kidding.

We docked later that afternoon in Luang Prabang, well rested and well fed. As relaxing as this cruise was, it still can't beat our luxurious bus ride to Chiang Khong!