8 Days in Luang Prabang
- Mar 24, 2020
- 6 min read
At first glance, Luang Prabang casts many of the telltale characters that make up a typical Southeast Asian hub - air pollution, oppressive heat, manic traffic, pushy hawkers, resourceful mosquitoes, a trash problem. Stand still by the edge of the Mekong, allow your mind to soften, and you’ll soon discover the layer of beauty and virtue that floats above this magical ‘not-so-city’-city.
We intended to spend just 4 days in Luang Prabang, before heading north for trekking in Nong Khiaw. After our first Mekong sunset, we quickly agreed that it would be nice to stay put in one place and really get to know a city.
We intended to spend just 4 days in Luang Prabang, before heading north for trekking in Nong Khiaw. After our first Mekong sunset, we quickly agreed that it would be nice to stay put in one place and really get to know the city. Luang Prabang is the EGOT (Emmy, Grammy, Oscar, Tony) winner of Southeast Asian cities - it cleans up at every awards show: People, Culture, Cuisine, and Nature. Indulge me as I describe the ‘nominees’, gleaned from some of the very special things we got to see and do.
Nature
Our loyal readers (thanks Sue and Abby!) will already be familiar with the beauty of Chomphet and of the Mekong River, which meets the Nam Khan River at the tip of the city. As you sail up to the city’s port, you immediately notice the very large hill known as Phou Si, or the Sacred Hill. Legend has it that Princess Sita commanded the monkey King Hanuman to bring her a rare mushroom to eat from Sri Lanka. This mushroom was called ‘monkey mushroom’, which she felt embarrassed to identify by name to the Monkey king, for obvious reasons. After several failed attempts and intercontinental flights, King Hanuman makes a last ditch effort to pick up the entire mountain for Princess Sita, so that she could pick the mushrooms herself. Now, this holy mountain is home to a temple at the peak, and speckled with smaller shrines that lead up to it.
We explored this peak the only way we know how - at sunrise! We left our hotel shortly after 6AM and ran about 2 miles to the base of the peak. Sweating bullets, we began the signature stair hike up to the top - a little over 300 steps. We reached the summit and were pleased to find a viewpoint that was sparse in both people and clouds, both of which made for a great experience. We jogged back to our hotel and enjoyed a hearty breakfast of rice porridge, fruit, and toast.
Culture
We seldom visited any museums while in Southeast Asia - perhaps this is because many of these would-be artifacts are still part of the landscape. Two museums of note are both in Luang Prabang.
UXO Museum
Did you know that Laos is the most heavily bombed country in the world? During the Second Indochina War (1964 - 1973) US forces dropped an estimated 2 million tons of explosives on the country, more tonnage than was used during all of WWII. This adds up to nearly 240 million bombs, and as many as 80 million failed to explode, now deemed UXOs. These UXOs impact communities in ways far beyond direct injury; the fear of unknowingly detonating a UXO prevents people from working the land, from building key infrastructure, stalling economic development. Though just one small, no-frills room, the museum displayed a range of explosives deployed by the USA, modern UXO clearing equipment, and detailed accounts of those injured by UXOs and the brave clearing teams and educators who work tirelessly to make Laos safer. It is estimated that it will take 200 years to clear all of the remaining UXOs.
Traditional Arts & Ethnology Centre (TAEC)
Laos’ 6.49 million people are distributed among four main ethnolinguistic groups, which sum over 100 ethnic groups and sub-groups. Originally, ethnicity in Laos was classified into 3 groups based on geographical distribution - those inhabiting the lowlands, the mountains slopes, and denizens of mountain summits. Utilizing artifacts such as musical instruments, clothing, and tools, he TAEC focuses on 4 main ethnic groups:
Akha : To show the diversity of ethnic groups
Hmong : To show their New Year festivities
Tai Lue : To show their cotton industry, from plantations to clothes
Khmu : To show their baskets and Back Strap Looms
We were most fascinated by how the millennial generation is re-interpreting century-old traditions. For example, New Year is a pivotal courting opportunity for young Hmong. Hmong girls spend all year collecting materials and designing their traditional costume to appeal to the finest suitors. Nowadays, with the advent of the internet, modern icons and materials like emojis and nylon are incorporated. Music, too, is fusing traditional sounds with K-Pop and Western influences as tribes disperse all over the world.
Garavek Storytelling
This was very unique. In a tiny, unassuming black box theatre in the center of the Old Town you’ll find a young, charismatic storyteller and a very old Khene player (traditional Lao pipe instrument) who recount Lao folktales and legends in perfect synchronicity. It is here where we learned the ‘origin story’ of Mount Phou Si. The Khene player appeared to be sleeping in between accompaniments, which added to the charm. The small show is performed every evening at 6:30PM.
Chang
Open-air film screenings are one of my favorite things. When I found out that Chang: A Drama of the Wilderness might be showing at a local hotel, I called, emailed, and had our hotel concierge also call the hotel to confirm. Created by the producers of King Kong and shot on location in Laos, this exotic silent documentary explores one small family’s struggles to survive in the heart of the jungle. While we were put off by many exploitative scenes involving wild animals (monkeys on leashes, elephants in cages), this film is clearly a technological feat, culminating in an epic elephant stampede.
Arriving shortly before 7PM, we were the first attendees. This remained until we were joined by a small Lao girl who sat next to me, who was later joined by a slightly older Lao boy, whom we inferred to be her brother. Though the subtitles were in English, it was clear that these two siblings ritualistically attended this film screening. They imitated the animal sounds on cue, and mouthed the dubbed villager noises in perfect unison. We couldn’t have asked for better company.
People
My favorite experience in Luang Prabang was the weaving class I took with a local weaver named Mone. She is an inspiring person. Coming from a poor Katu village in Southern Laos, she and her sisters created a successful all-female, family-run weaving shop which has now extended into classes and workshops for tourists. They use the backstrap loom, which leverages your legs to prop up the loom for weaving, allowing you to create more intricate designs and beadwork. Throughout our time in Laos I was so entranced by the artistry of Laotian textiles, and the Katu designs were my favorite - think Anthropologie Home but handmade and truly unique.
I arrived at the Weaving Sisters, dropped off on the back of a motorbike by our hotel concierge and his small daughter. I entered the small studio and was greeted by Mone, about my age, no taller than 4’10, warm smile. We instantly clicked and a 4 hour session turned into an 8 hour session. I elected to weave a camera strap that day. After learning the basics, we quickly turned our attention to other topics - boys and business. That snowballed into me building her Tinder profile and many calls to Payoneer, a credit card company, to resolve issues that she was having in receiving payment from AirBnB for her weaving workshops. She spoke of the challenges she faced as a business owner - one being that her street does not even have a name - let alone a zip code, making it difficult to receive mail. Things we take for granted. I was deeply grateful to make this connection and encourage others to check out their work!
Cuisine
We visited Laos in late February, before Co-Vid 19 was a full blown pandemic. Even still, the effects were unmissable - empty restaurant after empty restaurant, desperate vendors and ever-plunging discounts, desolate streets. This aside, it made finding restaurants easy - no reservation required. Of the many delicious meals we had in Laos, three were particularly unique:
Bio Bamboo
Serving traditional Lao cuisine, all dishes are served in handmade, eco-friendly bamboo dinnerware which is crafted on-site. Bamboo is basically a weed in Asia, so there’s plenty to go around! The restaurant also takes ‘off the beaten path’ to the next level. We meandered through two miles worth of dirt paths, passing construction zones and small villages to reach it.
Ock Pop Tock (East Meets West) Cafe
This is a local chain of textile and artisanal institutions throughout Laos, selling local handicrafts and offering interactive workshops. Peppered throughout the city, we started joking that Ock Pop Tock was like the 7/11 of Luang Prabang. The cafe, right along the river, offered fusion dishes, Another beautiful spot for sunset!
Dyen Sabai
To get to this treehouse cafe, you have to cross a handmade bamboo bridge that is only operational half the year, when the water is low enough. We enjoyed the 2-for-1 cocktails, and cushions!
Our stint in Luang Prabang would be incomplete without mentioning our accommodation, On the Mekong, nestled on the shore of the Mekong with picture perfect sunset views. We spent many lazy afternoons with the concierge’s daughter, practicing her english and playing games.
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