How Slow Can a Tuk Tuk Go? Angkor's Distant Temples
- Apr 4, 2020
- 2 min read
On our third day in Cambodia, we decided to escape Siem Reap and head for the Cambodian countryside. On the docket were Banteay Srei temple - known for its striking red sandstone - and Beng Melea - a decaying temple representing nature’s ferocious victory against man.
First order of business was to hunt down a tuk tuk. This was surprisingly easy. We had read about slimy tuk tuk drivers, but this guy was chatting up a police offer, so we felt OK. We settled on $30 for the day, and set off into the sooty open road. Early on, our driver warned us to keep our belongings close and to avoid using our phones. Drive-by road theft is still a prevalent issue in the area.
Banteay Srei
About an hour later, we reached Banteay Srei, with coloring reminiscent of the Utah sandstone landscapes we had visited just a year prior. We marveled at the ornate structures and carvings, some of which had been accurately restored after years of deterioration and theft.
Banteay Srei and Beng Melea aren’t exactly neighbors. The 50km journey took our dawdling tuk tuk driver about 90 minutes. By mid-day, the heat had become oppressive. We stopped for to-go coconut drinks at a road-side vendor, and enjoyed the quiet and conspicuously long journey replete with stilted country homes, water buffalo, and open meadows. We found creative ways to shield our arms from the sun in our doorless hooptie.
Beng Melea
Beng Melea’s atmosphere is one of a dystopian adventure game, or of a tropical Blair Witch sequel - gargantuan trees consume castles of rubble, long dark chambers competing for the ‘most creepy’ superlative, displaced carved stone resembling a chess board obliterated by Mother Nature.
Scrambling along this wild playground was a highlight of the day, and of the entire trip. Plus, Steven got to get in a few hanging vine pull-ups.
Angkor Wat
The next morning (Day 4) we ran to Angkor Wat shortly after sunrise, saving the best for last, while bringing what felt like a pound of pure sweat with us. You’ll see from the photos that I dressed to the nines for this memorable occasion.
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